USA PACIFIC NORTH WEST 2

BOB AND MARY'S TRAVELS 2015

USA PACIFIC NORTH WEST 2

JACKSON - GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK -

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK - JACKSON
11th September to 15th September

These antler arches are at the 4 corners of the town square

Rudely awoken at 5.30am with obvious issues with the plumbing! No more rest and decided to get up and start the day.


Mary finished blog while Bob went for walk into centre of town and saw fire crew setting up for 9/11 commemorations. Breakfast and then a good walk around the small centre before heading back to the Parkway Inn to pack and trundle our bags 3 blocks to the Lexington for our night stay. Left bags and back into town of Jackson, Wyoming. One of the towns in the valley known as Jackson Hole. There are an amazing number of galleries and you wonder how they survive in this area! We visited the two local museums - one about the local Indian Shoshone tribe and the other about the homesteaders who tried to settle in the area.

 Had some lunch and then back to the Lexington and got a room. Able to relax for a couple of hours before meeting up at 3.15pm for our afternoon tour with Brushbuck Tours around the Grand Teton National Park area.
Headed north out of town and turned off at Gros Ventre Road which runs alongside the river. Most trees in this area by the rivers are cottonwood trees. Turned into Mormon Row where several homesteaders tried to establish themselves in the late 1800's but due to poor soil most gave up - remains of old homes and farm buildings.

 First animal spotted was a bull pronghorn antelope. Had great views of the magnificent Teton Range mountains.
Out onto Antelope Flats Road and had a good view of a large herd of bison (about 800 in Grand Teton area). Magnificent animals. Back to main road and closer look at the bisons. From here we entered into the National Park at the Moran Entrance.



Pacific Creek

Went searching for moose but no joy. Headed to Snake River and Mt Moran lookout before going to the Mountain View spot - neither that great in afternoon light. While going around lower end of Jackson Lake we spotted a fox walking along the road - rare sighting!

Grand Teton 4197m

 On our way back to Moose Junction we came across a female elk with two calves. Great afternoon with good scenery and wildlife spotting. Back at hotel at 7.30pm and straight out to dinner at Nikai Japanese Restaurant - good food. Early night as up early next morning for 7am pick up for the 3 day tour into the Grand Teton National Park and the Yellowstone National Park. There are six of us on the tour. Two from Maine, two from Florida and us.
Headed north again past the elk refuge - where the elk come in the winter months. Was set up after Jackson town was built on the elk migration route to winter pastures. They are fed pellets as fields are snow covered and there is also a managed culling system. Elk shed their antlers annually and the Boy Scouts of America are allowed to collect and auction under permit - since the 1950's - 75% of proceeds go to the refuge for feed, research and management. Saw a bull elk trapped in the refuge - unusual for this time of year - seeking a way out.





Good views of the Tetons in morning light. With Teton Glacier standing out.



Turned off at Moose Junction as our driver Pat spotted a moose and 2 calves in the distance. Watched them until they went down into the Snake River.

We the tried to go onto Moose-Wilson Road, but closed due to too many bears in the area. Turned towards the Murie Centre and saw a black bear hidden in the trees feasting on berries - watched for a time and then headed back and came across another black bear standing up on the side of the road feasting on berries. It moved along the road and then to the houses on the at the Murie Centre (remains of a ranch left to the National Park). We then had an amazingly close encounter as it fed on grass - no other people around!

 Back to Jackson Highway and entered the Grand Teton National Park at the Moran entrance again and went to Mt Moran (1800m) lookout by the Snake River. Great views with reflections in the river. Mountain named after frontier artist called Thomas Moran once he painted this view. Several glaciers on mountain with Skillet Glacier most well known.




Headed alongside Jackson Lake(created by damming the Snake River to provide water to Idaho farmers for their potato crops). Then along the John D Rockefeller Jnr Memorial Parkway that sits between Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone National Park. He bought large tracts of land around the area and then gifted it to the Grand Teton National Park.

Entered Yellowstone National Park through the South Entrance with the Snake River alongside and further upstream the springs from which this river begins and then flows to the Columbia River. Spotted a trumpeter swan on the water.

Beaver dam

From here we followed the Lewis River and an area for moose (very few left in the Yellowstone due to the large increase in the elk population) with the red willows growing along the banks and good beaver territory as they use the willows to build their dams.
 Saw evidence of fires in the park , especially the big fire of 1988 which destroyed 36% of the park, but revegetated mostly by lodgepole pines as they have cones that explode with the heat and now cover 60% of the park and make up 80% of the forested areas.


Came to Yellowstone Lake, the largest freshwater lake in North America above 2100m. Lake is 350 square kilometres, with a shoreline of 180 km. In winter it freezes with a .91m ice cover except where shallow water covers hot springs. Stopped at West Thumb Geyser Basin on Yellowstone Lake and went for a walk to view the hot pools and geysers. Lake very calm and kayakers paddling alongside. Was quite spectacular seeing the Abyss, Black and Bluebell Pools and the bubbling pools on the lake edge.

Drove on alongside the lake to Lake Village and Fishing Bridge where the endemic cutthroat trout come to spawn. These fish are now on the endangered list due to the introduction of lake trout.


Headed east  - saw two cow elks with 3 calves cross road and run through grass to trees - obviously spooked as usually in shade at this time of day. Drove over Sylvan Pass to the east entrance - spectacular views of mountains and valleys.

Stopped at Pahaska Tepee (Buffalo Bill's original hunting lodge near Cody for lunch.  

Back into park to a high point where we got good views over the lake and the spruce forest fire that was burning. Last known that 2500 acres had been destroyed and fire not being fought as not near public areas.

Stopped at Pelican Creek Nature Trail and went for walk to northern reaches of Yellowstone Lake - lots of Canada Geese. Learned about the different types of pines, furs and spruces found in park. Lodgepole pine (so named as trunks used to build homesteaders homes) most common and lose lower limbs due to lack of light in thick groves.

Stopped at Lake Village for the night - accommodation at Lake Lodge run by Xanterra Parks and Resorts that has the concession for all outlets in the park including lodging, restaurants, stores etc. and have recently signed a new 20 year lease. Original building, still used today, was completed in 1926. The cabins are well appointed and comfortable. We spent time before dinner sitting in rocking chairs on the deck of the main building overlooking the lake to the Absaroka Range - smoke from the fire. Dinner and then early night to be ready for 7am start the next.
Went to Yellowstone Lake Hotel for breakfast. This wonderful hotel was built in 1891 for the Northern Pacific Railway and remodelled in 1903. People originally arrived by steamship on the lake after travelling by stagecoach from the rail station. Grand building.

 Found bison in car park as we headed off after breakfast. We headed to the Hayden Valley in search of grizzlies, but no luck. Only close encounters of wildlife were of bison. Very smoky conditions due to big fire.


Moved on and joined the crowds watching wolf way in the distance - not visible to naked eye, but in scope and better still with those regular wolf watchers who had a phone screen linked to their very powerful scopes. We were able to see a pup aged around 5 months. These people are in this area regularly in the summer watching the Wapiti pack. Were shown photos they had taken of the entire pack over recent months. Some have dedicated Facebook pages to record their images!

Followed along the Yellowstone River that eventually flows into the Missouri River. Having crossed the Continental Divide the rivers now flow into the Atlantic instead of the Pacific.








Elk only has one antler

Saw bull elk on side of road and also the very common bison.  

Upper falls

Stopped at the Brink of Upper Falls on the Yellowstone River, the Lower Falls, Grand Canyon of Yellowstone Park and finally Inspiration Point. Had great views of the spectacular scenery at all these places.

Lower falls

Osprey nest on rock

Mary and Bob at Lower falls

 Called in at Canyon Village where a ranger had 2 wolf pelts and spoke about the re-introduction of the wolves in 1995, 96 and 97. Thirty six grey wolves were brought from Canada as they have similar gene pool as to those that became extinct in Yellowstone. They have now increased to just over 100 in the park and have dispersed further. The re-introduction was approved once farmers were allowed to shoot any wolf they found on their property.

Went west to Norris and then north along the Gardner River past Obsidian Cliff where the local Shoshone Indians got the flint for their arrows. Saw bald eagle flying nearby while stopped at road works. Drove through Mammoth and out through the north gate and stopped in Gardiner, Montana for lunch.
Gardiner is a small service town and famous for the Ted Roosevelt Arch where people entered by stagecoach into Yellowstone once the railway reached there in 1903.



Spot the elk in the Gardiner River

Retraced our steps back to Mammoth - saw elk on the road and also in the river near where people swim at the hot springs.  

We stopped at Mammoth to view the hot springs that are in limestone rocks and have created amazing silica formations that are growing about 12 inches a year. The main headquarters of the park are and they have irrigated lawns that are wonderfully green and appreciated by the elk!

Old hot spring



From here we drove east to Tower-Roosevelt junction and turned onto the road that goes through the Lamar Valley and to the East Gate. Saw some mule deer at the edge of the road.

Came across a black bear under a tree not too far from the road. This bear was feeding on a partial carcass and going nowhere in a hurry.





Bear feeding on bones

Old hot spring by Soda Butte River

Was a very warm afternoon - temperature up to 26C so not a lot a animal activity in the Lamar Valley. Saw lots of people fly fishing in the Soda Butte River - one of the best areas in the park for this activity.

Near the main gate Pat stopped the van and we saw mountain goats through the scope and binoculars way up high on very steep cliffs. Amazing how these animals can get around on such small ledges. Eventually moved on and crossed into Montana again before leaving the park. We stayed the night at the Alpine Motel at Cooke City - an old mining town. Very much a small town and not a city!

Had very tasty rainbow trout at the Bistro and chatted to a couple from Utah who were celebrating their 41st wedding anniversary with a road trip for a week.

On the morning of the 14th we were on the road at 6.30am to go to little bakery to pick up some take out breakfast, but not open this morning so headed back into the park to see what wildlife might be out early in the Lamar Valley. Unfortunately it was very quiet except for a few bison so we turned back to Silver Gate, just outside the park and had breakfast in a small log cabin café - really good food. Time to hit the road again and try our luck with the wildlife and enjoy the great scenery.

We came across two different herds of bison close to the road. Including young calves.

Bison right by open door of van

 Turned at Tower-Roosevelt junction to Dunraven Pass Road and stopped to look at an old stagecoach which was typical of those used in the early days of visiting Yellowstone.








Various different soil layers

View of springs

Amazing tree roots

Stopped a little further up the road at the Calcite Springs Overlook on the Yellowstone River.

Drove over Dunraven Pass by Mt Washburn with its fire service monitoring hut on top - manned 24 hours during the fire season. Great views out over the forested areas. 


 Stopped briefly again at Canyon Village and the headed west on the road to Norris Geyser Basin. Came across a large crowd of people and found they were watching a large grizzly bear about 150 metres from the road. It was in very long grass and had a carcass that it was feeding on. Good sightings through the scope and binoculars, but hard to see in the camera. Our very zoomed photo is here.

grizzly in long grass

  There were many rangers moving the traffic along and keeping people off the road. If you do not park past the white roadside line you can be fined US$150!

We eventually moved on and took the road to Madison Junction where the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers join the Madison River. We drove by several thermal basins until we arrived at Old Faithful. Lunch and then a wander before the Old Faithful Inn which opened in 1904 and is built of local lodgepole pines harvested from 4 miles south of the area and rhyolite rock from 5 miles away. The rock was used to build the large lobby chimney.

Old Faithful Geyser

Joined the throngs at the viewing site to see Old Faithful geyser blow. This geyser goes off regularly every 1hr 20 to 1hr 30 and shoots around 70 metres in the air and performs between 2 to 4 minutes. Is quite  spectacular and a real drawcard for visitors to the parks.

Old Faithful

Moved from here to the Black Sand Thermal Basin made up of boiling pools and small geysers. Wandered around for 15 minutes before beginning our return to Jackson.

Cliff Geyser at Black Sands

 
 

 

Drove over the Craig Pass heading east and saw Isa Lake on the Continental Divide and on one side of the road it flows to the Atlantic and on the other it flows to the Pacific! Turned south at Grant Village and followed the Lewis River again. Stopped at Lewis Falls for a few photos.
Just a little further down the road by the Lewis River, our driver Pat spotted a bald eagle in a tree. A stop to watch this large bird.


Bald Eagle

The afternoon was disappearing on us and we drove on out the South Gate and into Grand Teton National Park. It began raining at this point, but didn't last too long. Out onto Jackson Highway and spotted a large herd of elk and stopped to watch the bull keeping the females in check!



Elk herd



Bull sorting out the girls!

Finally dropped off at the Lexington around 5.45pm and found that Brushbucks had booked us into a mini suite in the main building - more expensive, but no standard rooms available at this time. Both felt we could do with a stool to get into bed as so high off the ground! Found a very pleasant Italian restaurant around the corner and enjoyed our meal. Chatted to a couple from Napa Valley who have a timeshare in Jackson and have been coming for a week for 14 years.

We decided to have a slower morning after the past few hectic days. They weather was overcast - had rained quite a bit overnight - but headed out to take local bus to Teton Village to see Jackson Hole Ski Resort. Walked to south side of square, looking into shops on the way and finally got a bus soon after 11am - US$1.50 for seniors. Interesting going through residential area of Jackson and out into the countryside - ranch area with large herds of cattle. Rain started to set in and by the time we reached the village we needed our raincoats for the first time on our travels. Wandered the resort area - very European feel about the setting with accommodation right beside the chair lifts.



Murky conditions!

 Very popular both winter and summer with the skiing and then mountain biking. Cloud was closing in so decided not to take the tram that goes 4,139 feet up to the top of Rendezvous Mountain in the Teton Ranges and at US$29 for seniors saw no point in paying that money and not being able to get the views. Had some lunch and took the bus back to Jackson 21/2 hours later. Weather began to clear up and we had a pleasant afternoon. Bought some food and wine from the Pearl St Market for our dinner as had microwave and hot plates and then wandered back to the Lexington.

Snow King Mountain ski runs right in town!

 


Bob with Bull Moose sculpture

 Time to repack bags again and an early night after enjoying shrimps, followed by meatballs, brussell sprouts and mash accompanied by a Californian pinot gris.
Pouring with rain in the morning and we took taxi at 5.15am to the airport. Had some snacks and then boarded plane for 7am flight to Salt Lake City. Umbrellas provided to get to plane as all boarding is done on stair ramps at Jackson Hole Airport. Very rough flight and thankfully it was not too long. We had 45 mins between flights and then after another 11/2 hours were in Portland. Gloriously fine and we took a shuttle to the Rose Hotel in downtown beside the Williamette River. Clocks back an hour so we were at the hotel soon after 10.30 and luckily there was a room available.
Will finish at this point. Next communication will be after our cruise.
Bob and Mary