Thursday, July 23, 2015

Hawaii - Quito - The Galapagos Islands










BOB AND MARY'S TRAVELS





Honolulu, Hawaii - Quito, Ecuador - The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador  4th - 17th July 2015

We spent three days relaxing and enjoying the warmth in Honolulu before heading on the lengthy journey to Quito in Ecuador. A very easy place to ease into once you have been there a few times!

Have enjoyed swimming in the warm water at the beach. Managed to get a late check out from hotel on 7th July for our flight at 9.50pm to San Francisco. This was the beginning of our long and circuitous journey to Quito. Arrived very early in the morning of 8th July and found lounge so we could while away a few hours before next flight to Houston, only to find that all United flights in the US had been cancelled due to a computer fault. Luckily we did take off on time once issue fixed as our plane was already on the ground. A five hour flight saw us in Houston and we walked a long way between terminals to get to lounge, which was very crowded, and ended up with 2 hour delay there due to the backup during the day! Night flight to Quito and arrived at 12.45am on 9th July. Were directed to "senior citizens'" lane at immigration and then checked by customs officer as to the quantity of money we were bringing in - not an issue, but a little man being rather officious! Were very pleased to see our driver who then took us to our hotel in the old quarter of the city - about 40 minutes at that time of day from new airport to city. Very pleased to be able to get into bed and get some sleep before morning (5 hour time change).
We had to be up and at breakfast by 9am as it was cleared away after that! Eventually we headed out for a walk around the old quarter and the independence square. We both felt some of the effects of altitude and with tiredness we were not in a hurry to do very much.
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 It was surprisingly warm and crowds of people around. Looked inside Santa Domingo Church where a service was going on. We wandered to the square past small shopping centres which were not there when we last visited. Checked out the square and presidential palace and saw children in school uniforms and smartly dressed parents leaving the town hall after a graduation ceremony. Found a small place for a bite of lunch and then back to the hotel for a rest. Set out again later for a early dinner and found the square full of police, some with riot gear as there was a protest going on about the new taxes that are being introduced. Had a meal in a restaurant in the old palace building and then headed back out to find some roads blocked off, but managed to get ourselves to the hotel. Had an early night to prepare for our 3.15am wake up, but unfortunately had little sleep due to very noisy guests arriving back at all sorts of hours!. Next morning, 10th July we were picked up at 4am to go to airport for our flight to Baltra in the Galapagos. With the new airport the procedure was so much easier than last time with all bags being scanned instead of being opened and checked through for unwanted products! Had breakfast at a small café and then to the departure lounge for our 6.30am flight via Guayaquill where we sat on the ground for 45 minutes to refuel and pick up passengers before landing in Baltra.


 Once at the airport we were met by our guide Martha and got to know the other passengers on our boat, the Beluga. There were 10 of us which was a great number for a boat that can take 16 passengers. Good mix of people, 2 English, 2 Americans, 4 Australians and ourselves. Luggage located and taken to boat and we went by bus to ferry to get to Santa Cruz Island and then by bus again to the highlands to Rancho Manzanillo to see the giant tortoises in the wild.

 The manzanillo is a tree than bares very small apple type fruit that are highly toxic to humans, but one of the favourite foods of the tortoises. We all donned gumboots and spent about an hour wandering around the property over grasslands, through mud and bushy areas with moss laden trees (very much like the west coast of the South Island) and saw many tortoises, mainly young females with their slightly upturned shells and a few large males.








Diego the saddleback tortoise from San Diego Zoo.
He helped in breeding programme of these endangered
tortoises
Time for lunch there and then back on the bus to go to Puerto Ayora and the Research Station where they have a large tortoise breeding programme. Eggs are brought from the different islands and the babies are raised until their shells are hard enough so they are not such easy bird tucker and repatriated back. The station was quite run down and rather disappointing from what we remembered from before.


From here we wandered along the waterfront into the town centre. Lots of new shops, but a lot still the same. Saw a sealion sleeping under the fishermen's bench and a pelican waiting for someone to come to clean their fish!

Had a beer and then met up with the group again at 5.15pm. Boarded the Beluga by dinghy - a short briefing on the activities for the next day, unpacked, boat drill and eventually dinner. We all retired early after such a long and tiring day. Began motoring to Floreana Island overnight and it was a wonderfully calm and clear morning on the 11th July. Lovely views of the island at Cormorant Point and of the Devil's Crown.







turtle in beak
turtle going down throat
Went ashore after breakfast, landing on the red sand beach and followed the trail to the lagoon and saw more than 20 flamingos (didn't see any when we were there 12 years ago!). The incense trees were bare of leaves as the rain had not started - rather ghostly looking on the hillsides. Other flora were the parkinsonia tree, morning glory, endemic lantana, mangrove. Watched a very cheeky and camera friendly yellow fly catcher. Carried onto the other side of the island to a white sand beach and turtle nesting area. Saw lots of sally light foot crabs. Watched the frigates and a great blue heron that started attacking a turtle nest while being bombed by a frigate. The heron won the day and had 2 baby turtles for morning tea!

 Back to boat and quick change to go snorkelling at the Devil's Crown. Water was reasonably clear, but current very strong. Very deep water, but saw shark, turtles, eagle ray and many different fish.










After lunch we set off for a dinghy ride around a rocky outcrop where there were many blue footed boobies and sea lions and then landed at Post Office Bay where whaling Captain James Colnett established the wooden post barrel in 1793. At this time outbound ships would drop off letters and ships returning would pick them up.




 Today people leave postcards for people to pick up and drop off to those who live close to them. Snorkelled from the beach and also chatted to a young NZ couple who were on a boat of Israelis and not made to feel welcome - not great for them for a week!
 Captain's cocktail before dinner with all the crew in attendance - smartly dressed in their formal uniform! Briefing about next day's activities and watched videos of the German dentist who settled on the island with his mistress, the Wittner family who came during the 2nd world war and the baroness with her two male companions! Was a wonderfully clear night so went to upper deck to watch stars and educate those from the northern hemisphere about the southern cross. We set sail for Isabella Island at 8.30pm and had some rather rough seas at times. Awoke at Puerto Villamil, the main settlement on the island (around 3000 inhabitants). They are developing their own tourism business and will not allow large boats to come in. Most people do day trips from Puerto Ayora or stay at the small hostels.
Went ashore after breakfast doing a tour around the blue footed booby colony before reaching the boat harbour. Saw sea lions resting everywhere.



Boarded an open bus and then went through town and headed up to 600 metres above sea level on  Volcon Sierra Negro.






Spotted a vermillion flycatcher (very rare) on route to the beginning of the walk to the crater which is the second largest in diameter in the world after Ngorogoro Crater in Tanzania.










 Steady climb to crater in misty cloud, but clear at top for good views before mist rolled in again.

view into crater
view at the top




 Back to boat for lunch and ashore again at 2pm where we wandered around looking at sea lions, marine iguana, lava gulls etc.









Watched one young sea lion come out of the water and it wandered up to a seat where one of our group was sitting and barked at her until she moved off and it jumped on and settled down to rest! Onto the bus again and off to the flamingo pond. These birds are very deeply coloured.

 Visited the tortoise breeding centre where they only breed the different varieties of Isabella tortoises which all have hood shaped shells.
They are distinctive by area as they cannot get over the lava flows from the six volcanoes on the Island of Isabella - Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Sierra Negra, Darwin, Ecuador and Wolf.
We walked back through a lagoon area with more flamingos, moorhen and ducks scrubby vegetation and croton bushes with their lovely yellow flowers before reaching the beach.









 Carried on into the village where all houses beach side are built on sand and just back from there they are all on lava. Had a beer and then back on bus to the jetty and back to the boat. Saw this interesting banner in the town square with very precise costings at US$4,102,543.98 cents for the water system being developed - may be Auckland Council could learn something from this!!!


Went out to see the boobies on a feeding frenzy which was really amazing. Once back on board in the late afternoon our routine was the same each day with a talk about the next day's activities and a slide show followed by dinner. The food on board was really good and plentiful - always plenty left over!
Sailed overnight round the southern end of the island through rather rough waters and next morning -

 13th July we were anchored at Punta Moreno with clear views of Cerro Azul and Sierra Negra. Took a dinghy ashore and landed on a lava field that was around 200 years old. It was a very rough and uneven trail to see some very primitive plants, sink holes, water filled holes and a flamingo pond.












Returned to the boat and went snorkelling - water a little murky but saw several turtles, sea lions some penguins, sea horse, a well camouflaged octopus and some interesting fish.



seahorse
well camouflaged octopus








brown pelican
golden rays
During lunch we motored to another point at Elizabeth Bay and had a wonderful dinghy ride amongst the red mangroves and  had a



yellow warbler







in amongst the mangroves
lava heron
spotted eagle ray


Urbina Bay
great experience seeing blue footed boobies, flightless cormorants, penguins, turtles, sea lions on logs in the mangroves, golden rays, spotted eagle rays, lava heron etc. Had a talk on the geology of the Galapagos before dinner. Early start next morning (14th July) - breakfast at 6.30am and on dinghy at 7.15am - to be the same for the rest of the trip.


mockingbird




Dinghy ride ashore at Urbina Bay at the foot of Alcedo Volcano - where the land was uplifted from the sea in 1954. A wet landing on dark sand beach and then we walked the trail where we saw many finches, mockingbirds, warblers, land iguanas, young tortoises in the wild (hiding in bushes) and a hawk which is the main enemy of the iguanas and tortoises. The bushes and trees were interesting with lots of Muyuyu (cordia) with their yellow flowers and white berries, corton, morning glory (all yellow or white as with endemic flowers in the Galapagos)

Saw many male land iguanas on the trail distinctive by their longer neck comb, also saw some females and the burrows they dig to lay their eggs - sometimes up to seven to fool preditors.



On our return to the beach we had a lovely swim and saw penguins and pelicans. Then returned to the boat at 10am.


 Motored from here to Tagus Cove further north on the western side of the island and went past Fernandina Island. Had several frigate birds and lava gulls following us and we also came across a large pod of dolphins that we changed direction for to get a good sight of them alongside the boat. Spotted a building on a headland which is the park ranger accommodation for them to be able to board and check out boats in the area.


Fernandina Island



Eventually arrived into Targus Cove renowned for its graffiti on the rocks left originally from pirates back in 1886. No longer permitted by the National Parks.


 Went for a deep water snorkel alongside the cliff side - again lots of turtles, some sea lions, very colourful star fish and other fish.





Back on board for a quick change and then ashore for a dry landing in the cove for a walk up 220 stairs and a trail that leads you up to a caldera filled with briny water and then onto a view out east to see Ecuador and Wolf Volcanos. Saw the original graffiti on the island. Also saw lots of finches and different vegetation. 


finch nest





view of Volcan Ecuador








cactus looks like teddy bear!

 
 


Iguana relaxing on log!
 




We stayed anchored in Targus Cove overnight and then motored over to Fernandino Island during breakfast on 15th July. This is the youngest of the Galapagos Islands at approximately 700,000 years old. The volcano is still active and the land around our landing site last lifted in 1974.












 Landed at Punta Espinoza which is a narrow ledge of lava and sand that extends from the base of the volcano. Came in on very slippery rocks and worked our way to drier and smoother ground for our walk to see the large colony of marine iguanas, sea lions, sally lightfoot crabs, turtles and a large area of lava cactus - very little other vegetation around the edges. There was a skeleton of bryde's whale laid out at one point. Had to be careful walking on the sand due to so many nesting sites for the marine iguana. Lovely views of Fernandina Volcano




This is the hawk on the rocks with the marine iguana, with no babies around the adults were quite safe!

 The flightless cormorants were all drying their tiny wings in the sun and breeze. Having adapted to catch all their prey underwater the wings have become obsolete!

Below is an iguana with quite different colouration - looked rather old with the white crust on top.



The cactus lava fields with the volcano in the background
After returning to the boat we changed once more for a deep water snorkel - reasonably clear conditions.















We saw cormorants swimming, turtles, marine iguana feeding, corals, hatpin sea urchins and many tropical fish - a good experience. Back to the Beluga and lunch and we motored back to Isabella Island to Punta Vincente Roca on the north west near Volcan Equador- lovely sheltered anchorage in a cove with a cave. There is no landing site here and we had a dinghy ride out to sea and then along the cliffs before snorkelling. Outside the cove the swell was about 2 metres and we pressed in search of the elusive molamola fish (sun fish). Very hard to spot the fin of this fish in the swell, but the boatman of the dinghy we were on spotted two along with a manta ray! Once this was achieved we were quite relieved to get back to the sheltered waters of the cove!
Nazca booby
 From here we did a ride along the cliff face with lots of ledges for the birds and saw blue footed boobies, frigatebirds, noddi terns nesting, nazca boobies






brown noddi nest complete with pink toothbrush!



Began our snorkel off the dinghy after riding into the cave. Water a little cooler, but Mary still resisted a wet suit as it cost $30 to hire and not interested for only one time of use! Visibility was not great, but saw some rays, turtles resting way down on the bottom and various fish.
Aboard the Beluga once more and we motored to the top of the western side of Isabella, crossing the Equator.
The night before it was suggested that we dressed up with whatever we had in our bags to celebrate the occasion and were all invited to visit the bridge to see the dial count down to 0 00 000 as we hit the spot. We were then invaded by Neptune and his cohorts!





 
We all moved to the upper deck to party and drink a strange concoction under Neptune's direction. Neptune was one of our fellow passengers and did a very good job. All had a cocktail and then danced and partied for an hour or two - lots of fun with passengers and crew!!




After all the fun and games we kept motoring up and around the north coast of Isabella. After dinner we hit very rough seas as we headed down the east coast to our next anchorage at Santiago Island. We actually crossed the equator twice in the day, but one celebration was enough!

Another early start (16th July) at Santiago Island landing site at Puerto Egas (James Bay) and old salt mining village - a few ruins still visible. We had sea lions happily resting up on the duckboard of the Beluga!

Cerro Cowan in background
 There were some great rock formations and we eventually had a wet landing on the dark sand beach. Shoes on and then a walk in the grasslands before heading along the coastline on rocks and sand.

We saw lots of small birds and plants and shrubs.

endemic petunia






This area is full of marine iguanas and the colony had been devastated a few months ago due to the lack of green algae on the rocks and very large seas that swept them away.




finch pecking at bugs on iguana

algae covered lava rocks


oystercatcher
 Luckily the algae is growing back now, but we still saw many bodies and skeletons amongst the rocks.






lava heron

There were many birds on the lava rocks and the formations in the rocks were really interesting.





The fur seal grotto was very interesting with the animals resting on ledges high up from the water.









Watched one episode where a young female was sleeping in a shady spot a male came along and pushed her out - lots of barking and head bashing went on until she moved!
 finally got the spot I wanted!
young sea lions playing
finally mum stopped so I could have a feed!
We walked back to the beach had spent a little time wandering there before heading back to the boat. Another quick change and onto the dinghys again to go for a snorkel

shark resting on the bottom
before lunch and then motored to Bartolome Island.


We went snorkelling around the lava rocks near Pinacle Rock - water very murky - no turtles or sea lions. Saw many fish especially some blue with yellow tails. Also spotted a tiger snake eel.

rock looked like a lion in the water!




close up of Pinacle Rock
Bartolome is a volcanic islet just off the coast of Santiago. It is one of the younger islands and has wonderful landscapes. It is made up of an extinct volcano and a variety of different coloured volcanic formations. Bartolome has a cone and to reach this you climb 370 stairs and you get great views of the other islands from here. It is famous for its Pinnacle Rock.
 
 
We did this walk late on our last afternoon and had to remove sea lions from the landing area before we could get ashore - they moved back very quickly after we were up on the path! Light misty showers skudded over every now and then, but didn't cause any major problem. Was all clear when we reached the top to enable us to get good views.




final flight of steps to the top!
Martha, our guide

view of Pinacle Rock and Santiago          


View of bay at Bartoleme giving idea of crater


programme for last full day and typical for each day
 Once back down the steps we headed to the boat and set sail for North Seymour. We began some packing as we realised our start next morning would be really early (from previous experience). Farewell cocktail, dinner and briefing delayed due to rough conditions! Eventually arrived into the calmer waters of North Seymour and anchored for the night. Martha (our guide) showed us a slide show of some of the highlights she had photographed on the trip. Captain and crew came along and we were given our tip envelopes for them and our guide and thanked for taking the cruise on the Beluga! One small cocktail again courtesy of the Captain and then dinner.
No one hung around long into the evening as we were landing at 6am next morning for a walk before breakfast!
 North Seymour is a small island off Baltra and was formed by uplifted lava. The trail is very stony and it winds along the coast and then inland through low bushy vegetation. Ideal conditions for frigatebirds and boobies for breading.

love you mum!!
For the final island visit (17th July) it is great to see so much here. Young frigate birds, male frigate birds with their bright red balloons, boobies doing their mating dance, sea lions and land iguana.
comfortable with my stone pillow!



blue footed booby with 2 chicks



fledgling frigate bird










young frigate bird upside down in nest!
typical landscape at North Seymour
blue footed booby mating dance


female preparing small stones for nest













mum and chick in nest

land iguana



wonderful red balloon on male frigatebird
swallow tailed gull


Finally back on board for breakfast, a quick shower and finalising packing before having to head ashore for the last time at Baltra - having motored the short distance there.
Seemed hard to believe that we had spent 7 days on board the Beluga - could have easily spent a few more days exploring the islands as each site is different and always very interesting. We also enjoyed the company we had with our fellow passengers and our guide Martha.
Once ashore we climbed into a bus that took us to the airport and we collected our check in bags that had gone ahead of us and the procedure was very easy from here on in. So much different from when we were there 12 years ago with the old airport and no major technology and had our bags personally searched for forbidden items being taken from the islands.
From here our long journey began with our flight to Quito via Guayaquill. Four of our group and Martha stayed in Guayaquill and the rest of us went onto Quito. Said our final farewells there and we spent the next 8 hours waiting to check in for our flight to Honolulu via Houston. Found a very good TGI Fridays and took over a corner banquet table where we got free wi fi connection and could view sport television and even watched the All Blacks v Argentina game! Once we were able to check in we went to the lounge and rested there for our flight that left just before mid night. Already a long day and we had a five our flight overnight to Houston.
Will finish here and be in touch again with our activities once back in Hawaii.